When the sun sets....the beast rises |
It's not uncommon here. Every
evening, all house chores like preparing the dinner, dining and doing the
dishes are done before 6 O’ clock. After the meal, family gather around a small
fire and indulge in the usual gossip that all Bhutanese families are so
infamously known for.
But for my folks who reside in
the southern most part of our country-particularly in Hangay, sispoo Dungkhag,
their ears are also required to be extra attentive in the evenings to listen
the sound created by the incoming elephants from across the border. In the
evenings, being extra vigilant is very important to avoid direct conflict with
the wild beast.
My father, a government officer,
recently got transferred here. The best and the immediate investment he made in
coming here was to buy a Foglight touch. It’s a prized possession.
It’s a life and death situation
for folks here when elephants intrude our village at night to feed on anything
they feel eating. Every tom, dick and harry of my village possesses one
Foglight touch each. The touch helps them spotlight the beast in the dark
southern night and help make neighbors aware of the elephants.
Crops are eaten and damaged
almost every night and it goes without saying that a threat to the very life of
the community people is imminent. At least 7 death has been recorded since
1995.
Yesterday evening was a bonanza,
at least for me. It was my first encounter with the wild elephants. I had seen
them on National Geographic Channel in the comfort of a soft couch to lean on
and a cup of hot coffee savoring each sip that I took. Things are pretty
different here. The wild beast and human beings take on face to face.
My uncle and I were working on
his diary report when he heard a sharp “crack” sound beside our house. The
elephants were feeding on bamboo plants.
We went out and walked towards
our cow shed. From there he switched on the touch and the beast appeared in
front of our eyes. They are as tall as two storied house, brown in color and
were closer to each other. Only my uncle, grandfather and I were at home. The
rest of the family had gone to attend a Puja in a nearby village.
When I first saw them, my knees
began to shake and I immediately hide behind my uncle like a small kid. But
later I joined them yelling together at the top of my lungs and throwing stones
to chase them away.
My grandfather, who is known for
his calm and gentle demeanor for ages, turned into a roaring machine in minutes
after he spot the elephants. He yells, he shouts and yells again at the wild
elephants. After thirty minutes of stoning, yelling and blinking the touch
light at them, the wild elephants finally changed the direction and left our
house only to move into the interior part of
the village. The yelling continued
and the fog light blinked everywhere in my village as if a night party
has just started in an open space.
The government has erected solar
fencing which stretches 11 km from the outskirt of Hangay village till Jogimara
near Jaldhaka river bordering Darjeeling district. But the fencing has not done
much to prevent the intrusion of the wild elephants. The entire fencing runs
with the power generated by two solar panels which the community people think
is not enough to chase away the beast.
Almost seven months ago the local
community had requested the concern authorities to add two more solar panels
which they believe would help keep the elephants away. The authorities had
agreed then to look into the matter but nothing has happened till now.
The photographs I took with my
nokia phone amidst the chaos are blur but the worry of losing the crops for
wild beast and the fear of being killed someday are deeply engraved in their
hearts and minds.
The Fear of wild elephants has
compelled the community people to build concert building to protect themselves
from the wild elephants. In order to build these concrete houses they are
selling their inherited land and has put in all their savings. The construction
is in full swing. There are 18 new concrete houses under construction in my village
only.
My village was once known for
being the rice cultivation hub in the Dzongkhag but now it is turning into a
free grazing land (500 acres) or ‘no man’s land’ sorts of. ‘Cultivating rice is
like digging ones own grave’, says my uncle. If cultivation had to happen like
before, more worry and fear is imminent. In addition to it, the parents and
their children won’t meet each other. The parents have to look after their paddy
fields at night and during the day their children will be attending their
school.
The only time when they see their
children will be in the early mornings but the children will be still asleep.
My uncle joking says that neighbors won’t ask how ‘tall’ is your son or
daughter but instead they would ask how ‘long’ they have grown into. Because
fathers are always away from home at night and they have always seen their
child lying on the bed in a deep sleep while they return back from their field.
Thanks to the recently commenced
BOB office near our village that Bhaiya Lal Munda, late 50s, will no longer lose his earnings to the
elephants again. He had once hidden his savings wrapped in a plastic bag and
tucked inside a small wooden granary. Then, one night a hungry elephant had
broken the granary and gobbled down the grains along with the money bag. Munda
went on to search for it everywhere in the village but to no avail. Now, Munda will deposit his savings in the BOB
lockers and not in his wooden granary.
The Community is now planning to
build huge stone walls in all the entry points from where elephants enter our
village. Now more materials will be used… like cement and thick wire fencing
and Petroling will be increased.
The primitive stone walls had
once worked for the community. It had reduced the number of wild visitors
drastically. The People had volunteered to look after the entry points and for
six long months the villagers had experienced sound sleep at night. The Petroling
was purely on a voluntary basis. The Families who couldn’t provide man power
use to provide battery and touch lights to the volunteers.
Slowly People had discontinued
the practice in the hope that elephants won’t return. But now it has only
increased in number of wild elephants and the frequency of their visit in our village.
Until the concrete wall is built,
volunteers begin to guard the entry points or additional solar panels are
installed to drive away the wild elephants, my dad will religiously re-charge
his prized Foglight touch every afternoon, my old grandfather is all set to
roar at night again and my uncle is working diligently to bring more
substantial development in the village like collective diary farming.
He is also looking into bio-gas
commercialization, organic vegetable growing and marketing possibilities for
the collective benefit of the villagers. He says, ‘lets not waste our energy
talking about elephants because no one is going to help us, let's focus on
bringing more development in our village.”